Above left: The "tools of the trade". Various brushes, abrasive cloth and a metal chain for cleaning out glass bottles.

After this first stage you can now select the best pieces to begin the second process. From this point on the cleaning process will be different depending on the type of relic you are cleaning. This second phase can also coincide with the commencement of any restoration to the find. At this point we should point out that professional archaeologists tend to adopt only reversible restorations. That is to say that any restoration process can, if so required, be reversed in order to reinstate the relic to it's "original" ground dug state.

Repainting, reconstruction or non-reversible integrations should be avoided unless there is no alternative to halting the destruction of the piece by corrosion or decay.

GLASS BOTTLES.

Regarding glass bottles, I have found that the best way to clean the mud from the inside is to use a length of chain, very similar in fact to the type the US military used to use to hang a soldiers identity discs on (these days such small chains are used to hang your bathroom sink plug from)!!!

Once again these are easily obtained from your local hardware store. Insert into the bottle with some water and if need be, some soap. After a few minutes of vigorous shaking the chain has worked the dirt loose. In cases of a bottle with a narrow neck, keep one end out of the bottle and hold onto it - least you end up with that "ship in the bottle feeling".
Left: Two original WW2 era Coca Cola bottles. The one on the right having been cleaned using the chain.

There is a risk of knots forming in the chain during shaking, this can make extracting the chain difficult. In this case be patient, and try to untie the knots in some way, either by shaking the bottle for a bit longer or using a stick to remove the knot. Even adding some more soap and thus making the inside smoother can help. I have never had to break a bottle to recover a chain! So the next tip is: Buy one metre of "ball chain" to clean bottles. It will be worth the cost if you have many bottles to clean.

HELMETS AND PAINTED IRON PARTS.

Helmets must be cleaned with great attention. Even after 60+ years, depending on the ground the piece is coming from, a lot of paint may still be in place. In addition, decals or painted insignia may still be visible or recovered to some degree. The first steps described earlier can be followed to prepare the helmet. However with washing great care must be taken with helmets that retain any leather parts.
Do not allow this to get wet. If this should happen then allow the leather to dry slowly and naturally. Also the choice of any brushes for cleaning must be taken with care. In areas where insignia might be present (i.e: the sides of German helmets and the front and or sides of American helmets).

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